Amanda from Crazy Mom Quilts in her quilt binding tutorial which can be found here.
I do have a few of my own tips, things that work well for me:
To determine the length of continuous binding needed I measure the quilt top and side, multiply by two, and add at least 25 inches. I am always rather overly generous here.
I cut my binding strips 2.25 inches wide, quite narrow as I prefer the look of a narrow binding. I also use cotton batting which does not have a very high loft. Extra width would be required if you use a high loft batting. (You may also want to stick with a more generous 2.5 inch strip if you are going try machine stitching the binding for the first time.)
I join the binding strips with a diagonal seam as follows:
Joining binding strips end to end - from How to Make Quilt Binding
By piecing strips together with a diagonal seam you avoid having too much bulk in the one spot along your binding. Once I have the required length of binding, I fold it in half along the length, press with iron, and then zig zag the two outside edges of the binding together:
This is probably quite unnecessary but it does avoid tucks and puckering by movement of the two edges, when sewing the binding to the quilt. It is like a security blanket for me, just part of the process.
I join the ends together with a diagonal seam:
I like to leave quite a large gap between the start and the end of the stitching, say 12 inches.
You will have two lengthy tails leftover.
Overlap the two tail ends smoothly along the quilt edge.
Trim back the binding tails so that they overlap by the width of the original binding strip plus 1/4 inch
In this case the tails overlap by 2.25 inches plus .25 - a total of 2.5 inches.
Be sure to use a ruler and mark the binding for the correct measurement.
To join the two ends with a diagonal seam unfold the binding.
Place the two ends right sides together, perpendicular to each other.
Allow the ends to overlap by a generous 1/8th of an inch as pictured . Secure strips with a pin.
Mark a diagonal line as shown.
Stitch along the marked line (which can be cumbersome with the entire quilt in tow)
You can now test to see if the binding fits along the quilt edge.
Trim back the excess fabric, leaving a quarter inch seam allowance.
Press open the seam.
Stitch the remaining binding onto the quilt as before.
This method of joining the binding ends works for me each and every time. It leaves a much less bulky seam, and is just like all the other joins in the binding.
It is no secret that I don't enjoy hand stitching the binding. I machine it! There are several ways of machine stitching the binding, this is what works well for me:
MACHINE STITCHING THE BINDING:
Pin the binding to the back of the quilt so as to just overlap the stitching line made when sewing the binding to the front of the quilt.
As you can see I use LOTS of pins, although I know of quilters who can do this without pinning!
Pin one side.
Increase stitch length to 3mm - 3.5 mm
With bobbin thread to match the binding fabric and a top thread which blends well with the quilt top, stitch in the ditch along the binding seam line on the quilt TOP. By stitching over this seam line you are effectively hiding the top stitches.
As you stitch the aim is to catch the outer edge of the binding at the back of the quilt.
Remove pins as you approach them.
Stitch from corner to corner.
Once one side is finished, pin the next side, going around until all the sides are finished.
At first you may find that you have left small unstitched gaps,
which you can either run through the machine again or hand stitch.
Your technique will improve over time as you become familiar with the width of your binding and the pinning of your binding.
Hopefully you will find this information useful. Feel free to ask any questions regarding binding and I will answer them in the comments section so as to make this information available to everyone.